This is my first blog post, which feels a bit ridiculous as blogs are really for the likes of Michelle Obama, Raphael Nadal or Katie Price and who on earth would give a damn what I've been up to?! Soooo.... This isn't for others to read but for myself, so I can keep myself on track and acheive all that I hope to. And to remind myself when I'm feeling glum what I have acheived in the past and just be able to hang on to happy memories and practise my writing too! If the blog becomes really exciting then I might give others the address.....
So, to set the scene...... I recently finished a Zoology degree at Edinburgh Uni where I was crowned 'The Cleverest Person in Scotland' (Bsc Hons 1st, Ashworth Prize), and perhaps due to a knee-jerk reaction to sitting in a computing lab underground for weeks I started looking for work in Wales (spiritual home of rock climbing). Due to a series of bizarre coincidences I landed a job as bottom of the pile (centre assistant) at Plas Y Brenin (The National Mountain Centre) where I have been striving to improve my rock climbing amongst other things.
I have had some extremely positive experiences so far and have definitely made improvements to some elements, but some lows too. I am hoping that by trying different things and perservering be able to push my limits more and more and this should also improve me as a coach?
So what happened today? Today the sunshine has been glorious, so glorious infact I was grumbling about heat stroke! I went climbing with Tony and we decided on the Moelwyns as he had never been, I had a route in mind, and we could get ice cream on the way back! We started with my objective - an E1 called Condor (see picture) that for some reason I thought was going to be a cruise. However trying to get established on the rock above the boggy starting ledge proved problematic. There were several small positive holds for your hands but it was very blank for your feet and not obvious where to start and to add to the difficulty the start was unprotected. After about 30 mins of me faffing around trying the start in different places, I handed over to the rope gun to go and clip wire no. one so at least we wouldn't fall down the hillside if I fluffed it! With the pro clipped I was away and did the moves (although they still felt hard) and thoroughly enjoyed the rest of the route which climbed a suprisingly steep crack and culminated into a tricky pull onto a slopey ledge. I guess I would rate myself 5 out of 10 for style as I did place slightly too much gear and jibbered a bit, but maintained upward momentum.
The descent path takes you through a spooky tunnel lined with the rusting remnants of the slate industry down to the bags and lunch. Instead of the usual Brenin fodder (which is rank!) we dined on oatcakes, brie and apricots courtesy of Stoney Tone which made a nice change. I felt I was suffering a little from the heat and downed all the water that I could.
Next up was Nosferatu for Tony, which is an E4 6a up a steep quartzy wall. I precured a belay out of the sun and sheltered from falling rocks which was nice while he cruised to glory. Whilst my seconding could not be described as glorious (I had to rest) I think I did fairly well, it was a case of finding the largest holds the hanging off them long enough to remove the gear. Perhaps being better hydrated and being able to downclimb to rest en route would have eliminated the need for a rest? Who knows, but it seemed like good training for the route next door, Green Wall, sometime in the near future....
On the walk out there were some very inviting plunge pools and waterfalls that proved too tempting, but must remeber the bathers for next time to have a proper swimming session!!
So, to set the scene...... I recently finished a Zoology degree at Edinburgh Uni where I was crowned 'The Cleverest Person in Scotland' (Bsc Hons 1st, Ashworth Prize), and perhaps due to a knee-jerk reaction to sitting in a computing lab underground for weeks I started looking for work in Wales (spiritual home of rock climbing). Due to a series of bizarre coincidences I landed a job as bottom of the pile (centre assistant) at Plas Y Brenin (The National Mountain Centre) where I have been striving to improve my rock climbing amongst other things.
I have had some extremely positive experiences so far and have definitely made improvements to some elements, but some lows too. I am hoping that by trying different things and perservering be able to push my limits more and more and this should also improve me as a coach?
So what happened today? Today the sunshine has been glorious, so glorious infact I was grumbling about heat stroke! I went climbing with Tony and we decided on the Moelwyns as he had never been, I had a route in mind, and we could get ice cream on the way back! We started with my objective - an E1 called Condor (see picture) that for some reason I thought was going to be a cruise. However trying to get established on the rock above the boggy starting ledge proved problematic. There were several small positive holds for your hands but it was very blank for your feet and not obvious where to start and to add to the difficulty the start was unprotected. After about 30 mins of me faffing around trying the start in different places, I handed over to the rope gun to go and clip wire no. one so at least we wouldn't fall down the hillside if I fluffed it! With the pro clipped I was away and did the moves (although they still felt hard) and thoroughly enjoyed the rest of the route which climbed a suprisingly steep crack and culminated into a tricky pull onto a slopey ledge. I guess I would rate myself 5 out of 10 for style as I did place slightly too much gear and jibbered a bit, but maintained upward momentum.
The descent path takes you through a spooky tunnel lined with the rusting remnants of the slate industry down to the bags and lunch. Instead of the usual Brenin fodder (which is rank!) we dined on oatcakes, brie and apricots courtesy of Stoney Tone which made a nice change. I felt I was suffering a little from the heat and downed all the water that I could.
Next up was Nosferatu for Tony, which is an E4 6a up a steep quartzy wall. I precured a belay out of the sun and sheltered from falling rocks which was nice while he cruised to glory. Whilst my seconding could not be described as glorious (I had to rest) I think I did fairly well, it was a case of finding the largest holds the hanging off them long enough to remove the gear. Perhaps being better hydrated and being able to downclimb to rest en route would have eliminated the need for a rest? Who knows, but it seemed like good training for the route next door, Green Wall, sometime in the near future....
On the walk out there were some very inviting plunge pools and waterfalls that proved too tempting, but must remeber the bathers for next time to have a proper swimming session!!
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